If the acrylic bathtub hasn’t deep scratches, you can use a small amount of polishing paste. In sanitary equipment stores, you can also buy a ready-made set for removing scratches on an acrylic Surface.
When you buy a ready-made set, follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer. It should be remembered that we start work with cleaning and degreasing the surface to be repaired.

The surface can be degreased, for example with acetone. Rub the damage with water-based sandpaper, selecting the appropriate grain size (when large scratches, we start rubbing with a smaller grain, smaller scratches start with a higher grain). Less grain e.g. # 600 (larger scratches), then # 700, finally # 1200 or # 1500 (small scratches). In the case of very deep scratches, fractures, cracks in acrylic, it is recommended to use a repair kit consisting of liquid acrylic and hardener, as well as polishing paste.

In this case, the appropriate acrylic RAL color should be selected, because after repair it may turn out that the treated part has a slightly different shade of color. We connect the liquid acrylic and the hardener with each other and then fill the defect. The prepared mortar is left to dry, and then ground and polished in the same way as for minor damage. In the case of repair kits, strictly follow the instructions in the manufacturer’s manual of such a kit.

Acrylic, or methyl methacrylate, is currently one of the most popular raw materials used in the production of bathtubs. It owes its popularity to the advantages of the raw material it is made of.

Acrylic can be used to form various shapes of bathtubs, the surface is pleasant to the touch, smooth and shiny. Acrylic also has the advantage of keeping it warm for a long time. It is relatively easy to keep a clean surface on acrylic, as is the paint surface in a car. It is enough to use commonly available glass cleaning agents, a sponge or microfiber cloth.

Of course, there are many agents for cleaning acrylic surfaces on the market. At the end, it is best to wipe the surface with a dry soft cloth so that water drops do not leave a tarnish.

One way to reduce the build-up of organic compounds and the formation of microbes (“bad smells”) is to use the O3 ozonation function.

The ozone function allows you to significantly reduce the presence of microorganisms in the water. The quickest and easiest way to remove any microorganisms in the massage tubes is to use hygiene products for whirlpool tubs. We recommend that once a month or at greater intervals (depending on the intensity of use of the bathtub), add the appropriate agent to the hot water in accordance with the manufacturers’ recommendations (e.g. Forte Prime 1l) and then turn on the massages for a few minutes. Then drain the water and refill it, turn on the hydro massage again and drain the water again. Finally, with a dry cloth, wipe the surface of the bathtub dry.

If the bathtub is equipped with a self-drying system for hydro massage jets, then the maintenance of the so-called hygiene (unpleasant odors) is much easier. In such a bath with the function of self-drying water pipes, in the pipes of the hydromassage system, the remaining water flows to the drain or is dried with hot air in such a way that no water remains in the pipes, and therefore no organic compounds decompose.

The electrical installation must be made in accordance with the local electrical regulations. Installation and measurement works must be made by employees with valid electrical qualifications. According to the standards, whirlpool tubs as Class I electrical appliances must be permanently connected to the electrical installation through a two-pole disconnector.

For safety reasons, the power cable of the bathtub should be connected to the mains only through an electrical connection protected by a residual current device (RCD) with a rated switch-off current of 30mA., which will separate the installation from the electricity at all poles, leaving the contacts open at least 3mm wide. The RCD is periodically inspected at least once a month (by pressing the “TEST” button on the RCD, the RCD should swich off itself). The minimum cross-section of the bathtub power cable is 3×1.5mm². In the case of a bathub with a standard water heater (2kW), a cable with a cross-section of at least 3×2.5mm² should be used.

The electrical connection for the permanent connection of the bathtub must be prepared in zone I (the device is located under the bathtub), additionally an equalizing connection of the bathtub must be provided. There is an equalizing clamp marked on the bathtub frame, to which the equalizing pipe should be connected. When installing the bathtub, it should be noted that the parts containing active elements (with the exception of the elements supplied with low-safe voltage, i.e. not exceeding 12V) are not accessible to the person inside of bathtub.

The fact that the bathtub is connected to the electrical network must be recorded in the warranty card along with the signature and seal of the authorized person, which determines the warranty validity.